How to Clean with a Water Fed Pole

Perfect technique for a spot free result. Everytime.

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By using our foolproof method.

Increase your agitation efficiency.

Increase your efficiency so you earn more money.

This agitation method is the ‘Guaranteed Success Method’ because it is foolproof regardless of the glass type that you encounter.

 

It is simple, easy to do, and easy to train.

 

Use these 3 simple steps to achieve a complete agitation in the least amount of time possible.

First, wet the window completely.

Wet the window completely using overlapping top-to-bottom strokes.

Scrub the window again.

 

Scrub window again in the other direction, using overlapping top-to-bottom strokes.

Scrub the Top and Bottom.

If necessary, scrub the top and bottom edges with side-to-side full width strokes.

Increase your rinsing efficiency.

By using our foolproof method.

You are Faster and will always get a Spot-Free finish !

This rinse method is the ‘Guaranteed Success Method’ because it is foolproof regardless of the glass type that you encounter.  It is simple, easy to do, and easy to train.

 

Rinsing is the critical step for a spot-free finish.  If you are using spot-free water and still getting spots - it means there is a mis-match between the rinse-flow and the rinse method.

 

Use these 3 simple steps to achieve a complete rinse in the least amount of time possible.

Use the horizontal rinse pattern.

Based on the rinse depth ( explained in detail later ) you observe from the pencil jets, systematically rinse the window with a horizontal zig-zag rinse pattern.

 

Rinse faster with a greater rinse depth.

In this case, with a greater rinse depth, you can increase your rinse efficiency by using a greater distance between your rinse lines, without compromising the final result.

Use Fan Jets for Hydrophobic Glass.

For Hydrophobic glass, use your fan jets at 60º to get a more reliable rinse coverage.

The rinse depth can be observed by the fan jet shape on the glass.

How does Pure Water Clean Windows ?

There are several types of Pure Water Window Cleaning Systems ... and to understand how they work, you need to remind yourself about WHAT IS WINDOW CLEANING....

 

Forgive me for stating the obvious here !

 

Behind the Process of Traditional Window Cleaning :

 

           STEP ONE :       Agitate the dirt on the glass into solution in water with the Applicator;

 

           STEP TWO :      Remove the water (with the dirt in solution) completely with the Squeegee !

 

The use of detergent is mostly only to assist Step Two .. as a surfactant to assist the squeegee glide across the glass surface and remove the (dirty) water.

 

The most important ‘cut’ is to get the dirty water off the top edge, then the sides.

 

 

Behind the Process of Pure Water Window Cleaning;

 

          STEP ONE :      Agitate the dirt on the glass with the Brush on the Pole into solution (Pure Water) ;

 

          STEP TWO :     Remove the (dirty) water by rinsing ALL of it off the glass with Pure Water.

 

  This leaves the glass clean, but wet.  If the water is PURE, the water will dry SPOT & STREAK FREE !

 

  If the water is NOT PURE, the water will dry leaving marks equal to the amount of TDS in the water used to do the rinse !

 

So .. the Brush Bristles ARE the Applicator, and the Pencil Jets ARE the Squeegee.

 

The most important rinse is to carefully clean the top edge, and to rinse all the way side to side.

 

Then, chase the dirty water off the glass with quick, close (5-10cm) runs horizontal across the glass. Map the window in your mind and follow the process.  Cutting corners leaves marks !

 

SPOTS, STREAKS and MARKS

 

If you touch an applicator on the glass after the squeegee, you will leave a mark.

If you touch a brush on the glass after the rinse, you will leave a mark.

 

If you miss some dirty water with your squeegee, it will dry and leave a mark or line.

If you miss some dirty water with your rinse process, it will leave a mark or streak.

 

WHEN RINSING :

 

The Operator cannot tell the difference between dirty and pure water  - they look the same.

 

If there are spots left in the top corners :

The Operator did not properly rinse the top edge to the corners, leaving dirty water in the corners.

 

If there are spots along the bottom of the window :

The Operator did not chase the dirty water off from top to bottom.  Usually the Operator leans the brush on the frame and lets the water run down the glass .. thinking it will clean it all .. but it usually only cleans the top and dilutes the dirty water at the bottom.

 

If there are mild spots all over the glass :

A)    The Operator has used to high water pressure through the jets - like a pressure washer.  Instead of rinsing       the dirty water off, the jet ‘splashes the water’, making some of the dirty water land above the rinse line.

   The Operator is rinsing with too big a ‘stroke’. The cascade from the rinse jets varies from job to job - it is equivalent to the size of the squeegee blade.  If you look closely at the cascade from the rinse jets, you will see the distance the rinse is effective, before the rinse water ‘parts’ into ‘rivers’.  This can be 5cm to 15cm depending on the glass.  When the glass is hydrophobic (it repels the water), the horizontal rinse strokes need to be closer.

    The Operator is rinsing with a zig-zag rinse pattern.  If you study this, you will see there are triangular sections that receive less (or no) rinse water than others.  If you did that with a squeegee, you would get the same result .. a window cleaner runs the squeegee hand in horizontal lines across the glass -  the effectiveness is determined by the size of the blade.

    The Operator tried to clean too big an area on a window facing the sun.  If the dirty water dries on the glass, a rinse will not clean it .. it needs to be agitated again.

 

If there are spots down the edges :

The Operator is not rinsing the jets from edge to edge.  This is usually made worse by silicon left on the glass by the installer.  Usually, the Operator is seeing the Brush to the edge of the glass, as he would a squeegee, but the pencil jets are inset by 5cm or more, leaving the dirty water along the edge.

Remember, you CAN rinse over your old work - you CAN rinse across the frames - because the rinse water will dry spot-free.

 

If there are streaks :

   One cause of streaks is from the frame above.  Sometimes the residential aluminium frames have a drain hole in them  - for a small sill.  This sill is full of dirty water, so when it runs onto the window below, it will leave a ‘run’ of dirty water that will dry as a  streak.

    The most common cause of a streak is called a ‘capillary streak’.  This is caused by a window frame in disrepair.  The rubber seal, or the putty has broken down, and there is a small cavity between the glass and the rubber / putty.  The water is held in this (dirty) cavity by the surface tension of the water .. so you do your agitate, then you rinse, then you move along.  The window dries .. and slowly, the (dirty) water in the cavity evaporates.  Eventually, the surface tension fails, and a big blob of dirty water runs down the window, and dries as a streak.  There is nothing you can do to prevent these .. but the treatment is simple - clean the whole building normally, then go back to these streaks, turn the brush-head down, and effectively clean the streak, leaving the top 2 cm there, and in doing so, not allowing water to get back into the gap.  Alternatively, a microfibre cloth on a pole can quickly wipe away the streaks.

 

If there is a white film or rainbow film on the glass :

If there is a film on the window it would be caused by 3 main things :

   Oxidised Paint from the Window Frames

    Oxidised Aluminium from the Window Frames

 

In these cases, you need to clean the frames (agitate and rinse) and let them dry .. then return back to the glass and be careful to not wet the top frame with the pure water.  This symptom will disappear after 3 or 4 regular cleans, as the oxidised molecules are on the surface of the paint or the aluminium and the pure water is taking them into solution.  Reverting to tap water, or a higher TDS can also help, as it is the TDS000 that is aggressive.   Also .. there is a case for using an Applicator and Squeegee here !!!

 

    Rainbow Film is from an oil that is running in solution from an oiled timber frame or oil leaching from a putty.

 

In these cases, Pure Water does not work.  You can only revert to Applicator and Squeegee.

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